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Easy Needle Turn Applique

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If you prefer, you can download a PDF version of these instructions by clicking here. 

Fusible Appliques If you've ever tried needle-turn applique, you know it can be difficult to get an edge without wrinkles or bumps. Holding the edge underneath the applique while stitching the edge is a task reserved for the most patient of sewers! By adding a layer of fusible interfacing (the kind that has glue bumps on one side) to the front of the applique and turning it, you can easily manipulate the edge to get a more pleasing result. This technique works particularly well with circles and curves-not so well with long skinny shapes that are harder to turn.
Instructions:

  1. Trace the applique shape with a solid line onto the smooth side of the fusible interfacing and then add 1/4" seam allowance dotted line to the drawing.
  2. Rough-cut the shape from the fusible interfacing, about 1/4" outside the seam allowance.
  3. Place the interfacing shape with the glue bumps facing the right side of the applique fabric.
  4. Using a small stitch length, sew the interfacing to the fabric on the solid line.

  5. Cut the applique from the fabric/interfacing combo, trimming to about 1/8".
  6. Cut a slit in the interfacing.
  7. Turn the applique through the slit, working the edges out with a point turner or skewer.
  8. Using a Teflon pressing sheet or release paper, press the applique to a smooth edge. Caution: The glue side of the interfacing is on the outside of the applique. Do not press directly onto your ironing board.) Remove the applique from the pressing sheet.
  9. Position the applique on the background fabric and press to adhere it to the surface.
  10. Stitch edge as desired!


A quick tip: If you want to reduce bulk in your applique, trim the interfacing on the back of the applique to leave just an edge to adhere to the surface of the background fabric. After stitching, carefully trim away the background fabric from the applique.
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