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Let's Talk Bias

We received a few letters from our quilters requesting more information on bias which is used in all sorts of sewing applications, but is also used to bind the edges of quilts. Binding is used because you don't typically sew right-sides-together and turn a quilt, so there has to be some other method of edging the quilt. While turning is an acceptable method (called a knife edge) of edging a quilt, it's challenging since there is a third layer involved.

So, what is bias, how do you make it or buy it, and what can you use it for?

First, bias can describe several things:

1. The word "bias" in sewing terms means a diagonal line going across fabric.
2. Bias Tape or Binding typically refers to the packages of pre-cut strips you find on cards in the notions section of the local sewing store.
3. Bias Tape can also be much thinner, fusible tape that is used as an embellishment.
4. Bias strips are cut diagonally across the surface of fabric to capture the most flexible grain. The fact that the strips are flexible means that the application of the strips around curves and corners is much easier.

You can purchase solid colored bias in those neat little packages and sometimes on rolls or other types of cards in the quilting section of a fabric store.

Recently, fabric manufacturers like Michael Miller and Moda have been producing bias binding to complement their fabrics. These new premium bindings are a little more expensive, but this is one investment that is completely worth it. On the other hand, bias binding can be handmade and economical if you wish to match the project and pre-made bias is not available in an appropriate color or pattern. Larger projects such as King-sized quilts can take yards of fabric to yield the amount of bias you need.

Pre-made bias binding:

If you are confused about the way that bias tapes are named on the package (single- fold, double-fold, quilter's, bias, simple bias, etc.), you aren't alone. When there's a sale on at the fabric store, go get several packages of different width bias tapes, open them, and compare. Cut a small piece off each tape and attach it to cardstock, along with the term used to describe it on the package. Then, when you need to purchase more, re-visit the reference chart before you go to the store. Also, be aware that instructions such as those below for making your own bias refer to "double-fold" bias that is quite different from the packaged variety. We have defined the terms below:

1. Simple Bias - a strip of fabric cut on the bias, folded in half, and pressed. This is sometimes called “Quilter's Bias”, or “French Bias”, and just to make things really confusing, it is also sometimes called “Double-Fold Bias” (more below). With right sides together, match the raw edges of the bias to the raw edge of the project and sew with a ?" seam allowance. Turn, press, and hand-sew the bias fold to the underside of the project with hidden stitches.



2. Single-fold Bias - a strip of fabric with edges folded and creased toward the center. The amount of fabric creased toward the center differs depending upon what width bias tape you purchase. A wide or extra-wide tape has a shorter width of fabric folded to the center than a narrow width of tape. Open the bias strip and align one folded edge of the bias with the seam line of the project and sew on the fold. Trim the project edges even with the bias strip edge. Fold the other edge over the project edge and hand (blind) stitch the fold to the project.




3. Packaged Double-fold Bias is creased in the center, opened up, and both raw edges are folded and creased toward the center so that one folded edge is slightly wider than the other. Apply double-fold tape with the narrow side on the front of the project. Open the tape and with right sides together on the front of the project, align the creased edge with the seam line and sew on the fold. Trim the project edges even with the bias strip edge. Fold the other edge over the project and hand (blind) stitch or machine stitch close to the fold from the top of the project. The fact that the back edge is slightly wider than the front edge allows you to machine stitch through the binding and catch both edges.*
   

*Machine finished binding is difficult to do correctly. Sewing through four layers of binding, two layers or fabric, and a layer of batting makes it nearly impossible to get both the front and back of the binding stitched in a straight line. Binding feet and other binding products are available on the market that, with some practice, can help, but purists will tell you that, if you want your project to look as professional on the back as it does on the front, hand stitching is required.

Make your own bias:

Bias strips are simply strips of fabric that are cut on a 45 degree angle to the edge of the fabric. There are times when store-bought bindings just won't do the job and you'll want to create your own. If you have rotary tools, use the markings on the rotary ruler (almost all of them have a 45 degree line) to line up the ruler at a strategic place on the fabric. Try to position the ruler so that you can get relatively long strips of fabric to ensure you have the minimum amount of joining to do, but also keep in mind that cutting on the bias uses up significant yardage and plan accordingly.

After cutting the strips, join them together by placing the strips, right sides together, and stitching the corner at a 45 degree angle. Then trim to ?", unfold, and press.

Continuous Bias is bias made by sewing a tube of fabric and cutting on designated lines. If you've never done this before, just jump in, follow the directions carefully-and be amazed!

1. Start with a rectangle of fabric.






2. Fold down one corner of the fabric so that it forms a right triangle. Crease and cut the fabric on the crease line.






3. Flip the corner to the opposite side of the rectangle, forming a parallelogram. With right sides together, stitch the two pieces together and press flat.






4. On the wrong side of the fabric, starting at one end, mark lines at equal intervals the entire distance of the panel. Note: The width of the intervals depends upon the desired width of the tape. See chart below.






5. With right sides together, offsetting the lines by one, match the lines on the edges of the fabric and pin. Stitch and press open.
   Note: The fabric will pull to one side and will not be smooth. This is OK! Keep going!






6. Begin cutting on the line starting at one end of the tube. Continue cutting on the line until the entire tube has been cut into one long bias strip. If you have "ears" extending beyond the bias as a result of cutting through seam lines, cut them off.

Cutting Chart for Single- and Double-Fold Bias Binding

Finished Width	Single-Fold Cut Width	Double-Fold Cut Width
?"	1"	1.5"
?"	1.5"	2.5"
1"	2.5"	4.5"
1.5"	3.5"	6.5"
2.0"	4.5"	8.5"
3.0"	6.5"	12.5"

For Single Fold: Fold each edge ?" toward the center and press. For Double Fold: Fold in half and press. (Align raw edges of bias with raw edge of project and sew using ?" seam. Turn and sew a blind hem.)